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Techniques & fabrics

Monogram embroidery: styles, letter sizes and placement

By Magnus Madsen6 min read
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A classic three-letter monogram is either first, LAST, middle, with a larger surname initial in the centre, or first, middle, last when all letters are the same size. Stitch capitals at least about 6 mm high with standard 40 wt thread, and place the monogram where it reads at a glance: left chest, cuff, or centred above a towel's border.

How do you order the letters in a monogram?

There are two standard conventions for three letters, and both are correct. With a larger centre letter, the surname initial goes in the middle: first, LAST, middle. With letters of the same size, the initials read in their normal order: first, middle, last. Lifestyle and embroidery guides such as Southern Living and Embroidery Library agree on both.

StyleLetter orderExample: Jane Ann Smith
Three letters, larger centrefirst, LAST, middleJ S A (S larger)
Three letters, same sizefirst, middle, lastJ A S
Two letters (no middle name)first, last, same sizeJ S
Single initialsurname initial, or first initialS (household linen) or J (personal item)
Couple, shared surnameone first initial, shared surname initial (larger), other first initialJ S M
Hyphenated surnamefirst, both surname initials (larger), middleJ S-B A

Couples' monograms are where tradition and preference meet. Brides describes the traditional order but says the couple can swap the outer initials as they like. The Emily Post Institute, writing about wedding stationery, adds one timing rule: use the married monogram only after the wedding.

What size should monogram letters be?

Letter height decides whether a monogram stitches crisply or blurs. With standard 40 wt thread, Madeira USA puts the smallest clean block letters at about 6 to 7 mm. Finer 60 wt thread allows letters down to about 3 mm, and Hatch's font guide reserves fonts made of running stitches for lettering under 5 mm.

Capital heightWhat worksThread and needle
Under 5 mmFonts built from running stitches, no underlay60 wt, fine needle (60/8 to 65/9)
5 to 6 mmSmall satin fonts designed for this size60 wt recommended
About 6 mm to 50 mm (¼ to 2 in)Standard satin letters40 wt, 75/11 needle
About 50 to 100 mm (2 to 4 in)Wide satins: split satins or special fills40 wt
Over about 100 mm (4 in)Fill stitch or appliqué letters40 wt

The upper limits come from satin itself. A satin stitch can only be as wide as the machine's longest stitch, which Hatch gives as usually 12.1 or 12.7 mm; wider columns are split or filled. BERNINA's educators suggest a special satin fill for letters over 2 inches tall and a step fill or appliqué font around 4 inches.

Three details that trip people up:

  • Heights refer to capitals. Hatch notes that lower-case letters are about 70% of the capital height, so they reach the minimum first.
  • Underlay depends on size. Hatch recommends no underlay under 5 mm, a centre run at 6 to 10 mm and an edge run above 10 mm.
  • Script needs more height than block letters. In our lettering digitizer no satin is narrower than 0.8 mm, so very thin hairlines are widened, which makes a small script look bolder than the font. Give script monograms extra size.

For fine lettering, 60 wt thread is the tool for the job; the thread guide covers weights and needles.

Monogram placement on towels, shirts and linens

Placement is convention rather than rule, but consistent figures help. The measurements below come from Embroidery Library's placement guide, with BERNINA's examples for pillowcases and napkins. OESD's monogram placement guide gives almost the same towel figures, measured from the bottom of the design. Metric values are converted.

ItemWhereHow far
Washclothcentred, or angled in a corner1 to 1½ in (2.5 to 3.8 cm) above the hem, or 1 in (2.5 cm) above the border
Hand towelcentred2 in (5 cm) above the hem, or 1½ in (3.8 cm) above the border
Bath towelcentred4 in (10 cm) above the hem, or 1½ to 2 in (3.8 to 5 cm) above the border
Bath sheetcentred5 in (13 cm) above the hem, or 2½ to 3 in (6.4 to 7.6 cm) above the border
Shirt, left chestcentred between placket and side seam7 to 9 in (18 to 23 cm) below the shoulder seam
Shirt cuffbeside the buttonhole, facing away from the wearer1⅜ in (3.5 cm) from the buttonhole, ¼ in (0.6 cm) above the cuff edge
Robeleft chest4 to 6 in (10 to 15 cm) below the shoulder seam
Top sheetcentred, stitched upside down so it reads when folded over2 in (5 cm) above the top hem
Pillowcasecentred on the cuffa monogram about 3 in (7.6 cm) tall fits the cuff
Napkinone corner, angled1 in (2.5 cm) letters, at least 1 in from the edges

Measuring and marking

  • Pick one reference and stick to it. "Above the hem" and "above the border" give different heights on the same towel.
  • Find the centre by folding. BERNINA's towel tutorials fold the towel and mark crosshairs.
  • On shirts, err high. Gunold advises that when in doubt, a left-chest design should go too high rather than too low.
  • Check the hoop. A monogram plus a frame can outgrow a 4x4 field quickly; the hoop sizes guide lists sewing fields by machine.

Stitching monograms on towels and textured fabric

Terry loops swallow thin satin letters. Use a water-soluble topping on top so the stitches stay on the surface, a firm stabilizer underneath, and letters bold enough to stand out from the pile. Some lettering programs add a light knock-down stitch under monograms on terry for the same reason. The towel embroidery guide walks through hooping, topping and stabilizer step by step.

Fonts, frames and licences

A good monogram font is one made for embroidery and used within its size range: Hatch's font list, for example, gives each font a minimum and maximum height. Frames, wreaths and borders around initials are designs in their own right; our frames and borders collection pairs well with a single initial.

Fonts come with licences like any design. The US Copyright Office's Circular 33 states that copyright does not protect typeface designs as such, but digitized embroidery alphabets are sold under licences that set the rules. The design licences guide explains what those usually allow.

Make a monogram in minutes

The monogram and lettering maker turns your initials, a font and an optional frame into a satin stitch file. It uses our lettering digitizer: every pen stroke becomes one satin column, thin hairlines tuck under the thick strokes they join, and each word sews left to right. If you prefer ready-made letters, browse monogram designs or complete embroidery alphabets.

Frequently asked questions

What is the correct order of letters in a monogram?

For a three-letter monogram with a larger centre letter, the order is first initial, last-name initial, middle initial: Jane Ann Smith becomes J S A with a large S. If all three letters are the same size, they read in normal order: J A S. Both styles are correct; pick one and keep it across a set.

How small can embroidered letters be?

With standard 40 wt thread, block capitals stitch cleanly down to about 6 to 7 mm high. With finer 60 wt thread and a fine needle, Madeira gives about 3 mm as the limit. Below 5 mm, Hatch's font guide recommends fonts built from running stitches rather than satin.

Where do you put a monogram on a shirt?

The classic spot is the left chest, about 7 to 9 inches (18 to 23 cm) below the shoulder seam and centred between the placket and the side seam. On a dress shirt, a small monogram on the cuff, beside the buttonhole and facing away from the wearer, is the traditional alternative.

How far above the border should a towel monogram be?

It depends on the towel. Embroidery Library and OESD suggest about 1½ inches above the woven border on a hand towel, about 2 inches on a bath towel and about 3 inches on a bath sheet, measured to the bottom of the design. Use the border, not the hem, as your reference, and centre the monogram across the width.

Can I use any font for an embroidered monogram?

Use a font made for embroidery, sized within its recommended range: script and small fonts have their own minimum heights. Check its licence too. In the US typefaces themselves are not protected by copyright, but embroidery alphabets are sold as licensed files, and that licence decides how you may use them.

Sources

  1. How to format a monogram — Southern Living (accessed Oct 2, 2026)
  2. How do we combine our initials into a joint monogram? — Brides (accessed Oct 2, 2026)
  3. Wedding thank-you note stationery — The Emily Post Institute (accessed Oct 2, 2026)
  4. Monogramming with embroidery — Embroidery Library (accessed Oct 2, 2026)
  5. Embroidery placement guide — Embroidery Library (accessed Oct 2, 2026)
  6. Monogram placement — OESD (accessed Oct 2, 2026)
  7. Hatch fonts (PDF) — Hatch Embroidery (Wilcom) (accessed Oct 2, 2026)
  8. Lettering underlay — Hatch Embroidery (Wilcom) (accessed Oct 2, 2026)
  9. Satin fills — Hatch Embroidery (Wilcom) (accessed Oct 2, 2026)
  10. Embroidering with 60 weight thread — Madeira USA (accessed Oct 2, 2026)
  11. Adding lettering and choosing a font in BERNINA Embroidery Software 8 — BERNINA (WeAllSew) (accessed Oct 2, 2026)
  12. A couple of monogrammed pillowcases — BERNINA (WeAllSew) (accessed Oct 2, 2026)
  13. Monogrammed napkins — BERNINA (WeAllSew) (accessed Oct 2, 2026)
  14. Hacks for left chest design placement — Gunold (accessed Oct 2, 2026)
  15. Circular 33: Works Not Protected by Copyright — U.S. Copyright Office (accessed Oct 2, 2026)

About the author

Magnus Madsen · Founder of Embroidly

Magnus Madsen is the founder of Embroidly. He built the digitizing engine behind the library, the system that turns each drawing into machine files with layered satin outlines, hidden travel and an automatic quality report, and he checks designs in professional digitizing software and test-sews them on real fabric. The guides on Embroidly are researched against manufacturers' own documentation and edited by him.

Designs to try

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